This site has added Ajax support. It doesn't stop it from being horrifically designed and poorly implemented. Ajax is not a magic wand which will cure the web of its woes. It's a facilitator, an aid. Just like transparent PNG, or SIFR, or any number of clever tricks, it helps us make something cool but it doesn't make something cool. Ajaxian has this marked as a showcase; a showcase of how Ajax can be used as an excuse for a truly thoughtful UI I assume.
Even more ingenious - the preference to switch on this "feature" is called "ajax mode". The is nothing in the way of inline explanation and the detailed explanation contains a great deal of code....